Herringbone Twill(HBT)

Herringbone, also called broken twill weave, describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zigzag. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish. Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear. Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

Fatigue uniforms made from cotton in this weave were used by several militaries during and after World War II; in US use, they were often called HBTs.

Extrait de: Herringbone (cloth), Wikipedia [en]

Additionally, a fatigue-duty uniform made of 8.2-ounce heavy cotton herringbone twill (HBT) cloth was issued. The uniform consisted of a shirt, trousers, and a hat. Initially, this was a circular-brimmed « clamdigger »-style hat which was later replaced by a billed cap that was based on a design used by railroad workers. It was intended to be worn over the basic wool or cotton uniforms to provide protection during fatigue duties, but it proved to be much better material than the primary wool uniform for hot weather, as so it saw use as a combat uniform in nearly all of the major theaters of combat in which the US was involved.

The original 1941 version came in a light sage green color that faded with repeated washing. The later 1943 version had small changes in tailoring and came in a darker olive drab shade No. 7, matching the new M-1943 version of the field jacket.

Extrait de: United States Army uniforms in World War II, Wikipedia [en]

Jackets

Spec No. 45
Pre-war design, light OD, waist adjusting tabs, no gas flap, hem band, no provision for attaching a hood, small pockets with ‘cut off corners’

Spec No. 45B
1942 design, light OD, expanding cargo pockets on the chest, no hem band, no gas flap, no provision for attaching a hood, no waist adjusting tabs

Spec No. 45B (Special)
Same spec as Spec No. 45B but with gas flap and buttons to attach hood

Spec No. 45D
1943, same as Spec No. 45B (Special) but now in OD7, variations of pocket pleats have been observed with different makers (In my opinion the pleats were a variation, not a new pattern. It seems the choice of pleat was optional for manufacturers)

Spec No. 375 (Camo HBT)
Resembles Spec No. 45D, hidden buttons, reinforced elbows, pockets on green side

Spec No. 45E
Basically the same as Spec No. 45D but with simplified pockets (smaller size, squared or ‘cut off corner’ design), has small pencil sleeve inside pocket, very late introduction date (if issued at all during WWII)

Trousers

Spec No. 6-254 (same as trousers, cotton, khaki)
Pre-war design, light OD, white lining, no thigh pockets, ‘narrow’ shape

Spec No. 42A (1942) and 42C (3/10/43)
Light OD, expanding thigh pockets, gas flap, ‘baggy’ shape

Spec No. 42C (OD7) with revision 1/15/44 (Spec P.Q.D. No. 339, P.O. No. 3954)
Same as Spec No. 42A and 42C but in OD7, variations in pocket pleats (middle/rear pleat)

Spec 374 (6/3/44)
Camo trousers, 1943, ankle tabs, hidden buttons (except waist), knee patches

Extrait de: The ABCs of Collecting WWII Army Issued HBT Clothing

Combinaisons

Trois types de combinaisons HBT se sont succédées:

  1. M1938 Suits Working One-Piece HBT
    1er modèle de combinaison de travail réalisé en toile de coton HBT
    Federal Specification No. BBB-S-786
    Numéros de stock: 55-S-49846-30 à 55-S-49888
  2. M1942 Suits Herringbone Twill One-Piece Special
    2ème modèle de combinaison de travail réalisée en toile de coton HBT de couleur OD 3
    Specification P.Q.D. No. 92C et 92E
    Numéros de stock: 55-S-45841 à 55-S-45890
  3. M1943 Suits Herringbone Twill One-Piece O.D. 7 Special
    Dernier modèle de combinaison de travail réalisé en toile de coton HBT de couleur OD 7
    Specification P.Q.D. No. 92F
    Numéros de stock: 55-S-45525 à 55-S-45580
« In this line-up the left hand man has the first pattern HBT suit; only this pattern has an inner, buttoned pocket in the slash side pocket giving access to trousers worn under the suit. It has two patch rear pockets, a long wrench pocket on the right side thigh, and a bi-swing back. The second man from the lfet has the secont type suit, with a buttoned flap on the single rear pocket, a bi-swing back and no wrench pocket. At right are two men in the third-pattern suits; this has no bi-swing back, a wrench pocket, and no fastening to he flap on the rear pocket. The second and third patterns have a flap over the lower front patch pockets. All patterns have integral belts with tongueless metal buckles. » Source: The World War II GI US Army Uniforms 1941-1945 in Color Photographs, p. 20

Bibliographie

  • WINDROW, Richard & Tim HAWKINS (1993) The World War II GI US Army Uniforms 1941-1945 in Color Photographs. The Crowood Press, 145 p.

Webographie

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